Portrait Lighting - Photographic portrait light source size comparison for portrait photography lighting
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Portrait photography light source sizePortrait photography lighting and portrait photography (with strobe or electronic flash equipment) are a constant topics of discussion on most of the professional photography forums that I frequent so I thought it might be helpful If I did a portrait lighting test to clear up some misinformation about size of light boxes and umbrellas. In portrait photography, size does matter, especially the size of ones umbrella or light box. Many portrait photographers, at the beginning of their career, are faced with the expensive and difficult task of purchasing strobe or electronic flash lighting equipment. My hope is that this test and these samples will help to demonstrate the differences between all the different light sources, especially as it pertains to portrait photography, and therefore make it easier for novice portrait photographers to make the right choice when purchasing lighting equipment. |
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Portrait photography lighting testWhat I did here was to create a controlled environment in my photography studio so that I could compare the various light sources that I have available for portrait photography. To minimize the variables as much as possible, I kept the output of the light source the same by using a power pack that had power control that enabled my to just turn up and down the power as desired to maintain a consistent light ratio between the main light and the background light. I actually shot every light source here with a fill light too, but decided not to include them because the extreme darkness of the shadow side of the face (without fill light) helped to show the differences in the light quality of the various sources better that the photos using a fill light. |
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Portrait photography lighting test - what I learnedIn portrait photography, like most other types of photography, there is no right or wrong. Portrait lighting equipment is just a tool a photographer uses to create a desired effect or photograph. The problem is, for most novice photographers, they don’t really know what they’re going after. All they want to do is have “nice lighting”, when they don’t really understand what makes lighting “nice”. “Nice” portrait lighting is different, depending on the subject and the intended Mood or effect that the photographer is attempting to create. Is it wrong to use a small light source in a particular situation? Maybe… Here are the general rules of thumb when it comes for portrait photography lighting.1. To create more texture, a smaller light source will give you that effect. USSUALLY, lots of texture is not something people like in a family portrait. Small light sources are great fro making old men look all wrinkled and old looking. Some old men, or photo editors may really like that dramatic effect, usually mothers don’t. 2. Large light sources are better for hiding texture. Mother like that. A larger light tends to fill in all those cracks and lines around the face, making people look comparatively younger. Many photographers think that the larger the light source, the better and safer for most family portrait applications. And that’s probably true. The problem is that safe is often quite boring, after a while. Smaller light sources tend to be a bit more dramatic and tend to push en envelope a bit more. Sometimes drama is great, sometimes it’s not. But seldom is it boring. Ugly maybe, but seldom boring. 3. Light boxes enable you to keep the light from bouncing all around the room. Umbrellas tend to add fill light to everything, whether you want it or not. Side note: One of the more interesting things that I learned doing this test was just how different in color my different light sources are. If you take a close look, you will see how some shots are a little blue and some are a little more yellow than the others. This is caused mostly by the age of my light boxes. Some of my light boxes are over twenty years old and have yellowed over the years. Except for the color, they function just fine, so it’s a little hard to justify spending tons of money replacing them. I end up just compensating for the color with the white balance of my camera. The big trouble comes when I try to combine reflectors with the old boxes. Then I do, I always have to add a little warming gel to matching the reflectors (and umbrellas) to the boxes. I usually shoot my white balance set at 5600K. The normal setting from strobe is around 6000K. What to remember about portrait lighting… Lights are simply a portrait photographer’s tool, used for creating and fulfilling the photographer’s vision. Should this shot be dramatic or not? Will the subject (or client) want to look older or younger? |
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Portrait Photography Test Control informationCamera D2x with 80-210 shot as Lg. jpg. White Balance 5600K Flash equipment Norman Source to Sandy distance 46” Camera to Sandy distance 9’ Sandy to background distance 7’ Background light Norman w/ 5” reflector Background light to background distance 2’ Every light source metered (pointed at light) from forehead at f22 Each light source was placed with the center of its “diffusion” surface at exactly 46” from Sandy and at a consistent height (71”). In other words, the light stands were moved farther or closer to Sandy depending on the size of the umbrella or light box. |
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